Most recent edit on 2008-05-07 10:44:09 by FlamurAdili
Additions:
Starter (8/2007)
Deletions:
Starter (8/2007 - Autozone part)
Edited on 2008-04-11 09:29:44 by ChadClancy
Additions:
Tranny Filter/Fluid (ATF+4) 4-10-08
Edited on 2007-10-04 13:31:32 by ChadClancy
Additions:
Catylitic converter (around 2002)
Starter (8/2007 - Autozone part)
Deletions:
Starter (8/2007)
Edited on 2007-10-02 09:50:04 by ChadClancy
Additions:
Radiator: GDI/TRANSPRO 432503
MOOG ES3332R MOOG ES3331R
A-1 CARDONE 112700 (11-2700)
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4209
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4188
Deletions:
Radiator: GDI/TRANSPRO 432503
MOOG ES3332R MOOG ES3331R
A-1 CARDONE 112700 (11-2700)
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4209
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4188
Edited on 2007-10-02 09:48:42 by ChadClancy
Additions:
Radiator: GDI/TRANSPRO 432503
MOOG ES3332R MOOG ES3331R
A-1 CARDONE 112700 (11-2700)
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4209
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4188
Deletions:
Radiator: GDI/TRANSPRO 432503
MOOG ES3332R MOOG ES3331R
A-1 CARDONE 112700 (11-2700)
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4209
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4188
Edited on 2007-10-02 09:47:47 by ChadClancy
Additions:
Radiator: GDI/TRANSPRO 432503
MOOG ES3332R MOOG ES3331R
A-1 CARDONE 112700 (11-2700)
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4209
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4188
Deletions:
Radiator: GDI/TRANSPRO 432503
MOOG ES3332R MOOG ES3331R
A-1 CARDONE 112700 (11-2700)
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4209
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4188
Edited on 2007-10-02 09:47:01 by ChadClancy
Additions:
Brake Pads (as needed)
Calipers (all four: Front 2002, Rear 2004)
Radiator/Thermostat/Upper and Lower Hoses (8/2004)
Radiator: GDI/TRANSPRO 432503
MOOG ES3332R MOOG ES3331R
Spark Plugs/Distributor Cap/Rotor (2004)
Clutch Master Cylinder (2003)
Brake Master Cylinder (9/2007)
A-1 CARDONE 112700 (11-2700)
CV Half Shafts (both) (3/2007)
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4209
CV UNLIMITED Part #N4188
Deletions:
Calipers (all four)
Radiator/Thermostat/Upper and Lower Hoses
Spark Plugs/Distributor Cap/Rotor
Clutch Master Cylinder
Brake Master Cylinder (9/2007)
CV Half Shafts (both) (6/2007)
Edited on 2007-10-02 09:30:20 by ChadClancy
Additions:
CV Half Shafts (both) (6/2007)
Edited on 2007-09-27 09:25:35 by ChadClancy
Additions:
Rotors (front 2004, rear 2005)
Radiator/Thermostat/Upper and Lower Hoses
Front Upper Tie Rod ends (left and right 2/2004)
Timing Belt/Water pump/Valve Cover Gasket/3 Acessory Drive Belts (121K miles, 9/2004)
Spark Plugs/Distributor Cap/Rotor
Brake Master Cylinder (9/2007)
Starter (8/2007)
Cleaned IACV Valve/Fuel Filter (9/2004)
Engine Control Computer (6/2005)
Rear HD Shocks/Leaf Spring Boosters
Trailer Hitch/Wiring
Added External Transmission Cooler
Deletions:
Radiator
Tie Rod ends
Timing Belt/Water pump/Acessory Drive Belts
Brake Master Cylinder
Engine Control Computer
Rear Shocks
Edited on 2007-09-27 09:11:33 by ChadClancy
Additions:
My Vehicles:
1994 ACURA INTEGRA LS 1.8L 1834cc L4 MFI [B18B1]
Parts Replaced
Brake Pads
Rotors
Calipers (all four)
Radiator
Tie Rod ends
Timing Belt/Water pump/Acessory Drive Belts
Clutch Master Cylinder
Brake Master Cylinder
Starter
1996 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN SE 3.3L 201cid V6 MFI (R) Federal Emissions
Parts Replaced
Engine Control Computer
Water Pump
Serpentine belt
Rear Shocks
Brake Pads/Shoes
Starter
1986 FORD RANGER 2.3L 140cid L4 MFI (A)
Parts Replaced
Clutch
Rotors
Brake Pads
Deletions:
My Vehicles:
1994 ACURA INTEGRA LS 1.8L 1834cc L4 MFI [B18B1]
1996 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN SE 3.3L 201cid V6 MFI (R) Federal Emissions
1986 FORD RANGER 2.3L 140cid L4 MFI (A)
Edited on 2007-09-27 09:03:33 by ChadClancy
Additions:
My Vehicles:
1994 ACURA INTEGRA LS 1.8L 1834cc L4 MFI [B18B1]
1996 DODGE GRAND CARAVAN SE 3.3L 201cid V6 MFI (R) Federal Emissions
1986 FORD RANGER 2.3L 140cid L4 MFI (A)
Deletions:
Brakes felt spongy (pedal would gradually sink to floor when vehicle was stopped and felt like the system was losing pressure). Bled the brake lines (in order RR, LR, RF, LF). This did not solve the problem and no leakage was detected around the calipers so my next step was to replace the master cylinder. I chose A1-Cardone because I had had good luck with this manufacturers rebuilt parts on other jobs.
The part came with the base master cylinder unit (without the fill reservoir or filter basket and the mounting clamp for the reservoir) but it did come with some plastic fittings and tubing to bench bleed the unit. It also came with the rubber donut gasket between the master cylinder and the vacuum booster. Make sure to remove the old one after taking off the existing master cylinder because it will probably remain stuck to the booster after the old part is removed. You will re-use the nuts/washers that attach the master cylinder to the vacuum booster.
One of the plastic fittings for bench bleeding the master cylinder didn't seem to thread in very well. As such, I didn't get a very good seal on that port and I think there was some air getting in at that location. I attached one flange of the master cylinder to a bench vice to bleed the unit and due to the lack of a good seal on the one port, there seemed to still be some air bubbles even after I bled it as best I could. I went ahead with the rest of the repair assuming I would be able to remove this air when bleeding the brakes.
Put some rags under the master cylinder to catch any drips.
I had a bulb-type syphon to remove as much of the brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder - this worked well. I used a flare-nut wrench (10 mm) to remove the two fluid lines from the master cylinder (switched to an open end wrench once they were broken free) and an offset box end wrench (12 mm) to remove the two the master cylinder nuts from the vacuum booster. You may be able to get a ratchet on the 12 mm nuts but it is pretty tight and kind of slow going. You can move the throttle cable off of its bracket (no tools required) to get it out of the way while you replace the master cylinder.
Oldest known version of this page was edited on 2007-09-27 08:52:53 by ChadClancy [Original edit]
Page view:
Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:
How did you know this part needed replacement? Why did you choose a certain brand/part number?
Brakes felt spongy (pedal would gradually sink to floor when vehicle was stopped and felt like the system was losing pressure). Bled the brake lines (in order RR, LR, RF, LF). This did not solve the problem and no leakage was detected around the calipers so my next step was to replace the master cylinder. I chose A1-Cardone because I had had good luck with this manufacturers rebuilt parts on other jobs.
Part Comments
What came in the box? Were additional nuts, bolts, sealant, etc. needed for the repair?
The part came with the base master cylinder unit (without the fill reservoir or filter basket and the mounting clamp for the reservoir) but it did come with some plastic fittings and tubing to bench bleed the unit. It also came with the rubber donut gasket between the master cylinder and the vacuum booster. Make sure to remove the old one after taking off the existing master cylinder because it will probably remain stuck to the booster after the old part is removed. You will re-use the nuts/washers that attach the master cylinder to the vacuum booster.
Repair / Installation tips:
Special tools needed? Have to remove other parts to reach this one? Any left-hand threads, sharp edges, messy fluids or other pitfalls to avoid?
One of the plastic fittings for bench bleeding the master cylinder didn't seem to thread in very well. As such, I didn't get a very good seal on that port and I think there was some air getting in at that location. I attached one flange of the master cylinder to a bench vice to bleed the unit and due to the lack of a good seal on the one port, there seemed to still be some air bubbles even after I bled it as best I could. I went ahead with the rest of the repair assuming I would be able to remove this air when bleeding the brakes.
Put some rags under the master cylinder to catch any drips.
I had a bulb-type syphon to remove as much of the brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder - this worked well. I used a flare-nut wrench (10 mm) to remove the two fluid lines from the master cylinder (switched to an open end wrench once they were broken free) and an offset box end wrench (12 mm) to remove the two the master cylinder nuts from the vacuum booster. You may be able to get a ratchet on the 12 mm nuts but it is pretty tight and kind of slow going. You can move the throttle cable off of its bracket (no tools required) to get it out of the way while you replace the master cylinder.
