Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:
How did you know this part needed replacement? Why did you choose a certain brand/part number?
What came in the box? Were additional nuts, bolts, sealant, etc. needed for the repair?
two gaskets, new bolts, EGR valve
Repair / Installation tips:
Special tools needed? Have to remove other parts to reach this one? Any left-hand threads, sharp edges, messy fluids or other pitfalls to avoid?
Van EGR valve (with belt and alternator) removal
These instructions apply to my 2006 Chrysler Town and Country with the 3.8L V6. YMMV.
Main: How to remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve
Supplemental: How to remove serpentine belt
Supplemental: How to remove alternator
Some have claimed you can remove the EGR valve without removing the alternator. I don’t think it’s possible. (Don’t post saying you’ve done this; post the video if you want me to believe it :-) Here’s the problem. You are not able to square up a 10mm socket on the lower EGR bolt with the alternator in place. This has nothing to do with a U-joint or wobble extension; it has to do with getting the socket correctly on the bolt head. I used the thinnest ¼” drive socket that I had, and it wouldn’t square up. Those EGR bolts are very snug and I’m sure I would have rounded off the bolt head trying to remove it with the alternator in the way. (When you search, you’ll see a lot of people indicating they had to drill out the bolt, and this is why.)
To remove the EGR valve you need to remove the alternator (maybe my van has a different alternator that places it in the way of the EGR bolt, who knows?)
From underneath the van, remove the plastic splash shield on the passenger side. There are four “Christmas tree” fasteners to pull out. I use end nippers to grab under the “head” and pull them out. This gives you access to the front of the engine to remove the belt and alternator.
From underneath the van, use a ½” drive breaker bar to move the tensioner such that the serpentine belt can be removed. Note: don’t put a socket on the bolt that’s visible, put your ½” drive into the opening to the left of the bolt (see image 1980) Rotate the tensioner down to release pressure on the belt and then slide the belt off the alternator.
[I guess I can't upload images to this site, sorry]
From underneath the van, you can see two of the three 15mm bolts holding the alternator bracket on. In this image (image 1982) the lower bolt is not visible but easily accessible.
Loosen the lower bolt, but don’t remove it. Remove the upper bolt (15mm). From on top of the engine, you can see the third bolt (image 1983). Remove that bolt.
Now, you can tilt the alternator toward the front of the van and out of the way (on the loose lower bolt).
Remove the electrical connector from the EGR valve by sliding the red locking pin to the right, and then pressing the latch and pulling the connector out toward the front of the van.
Remove the two 8mm bolts holding the EGR tube onto the EGR valve. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the EGR valve to the head (I did use a wobble extension here for the lower bolt). The EGR valve bolts are likely very tight. I used a pipe over my ratchet for some extra leverage.
The EGR valve to head uses a thin metal gasket while the EGR valve to tube uses a traditional “cork” gasket. My new EGR valve included both gaskets and new bolts. My EGR valve was an Airtec/Wells from Rock Auto ($80 shipped) part number 4F1904 [fast shipping!] http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1432092&parttype=4968∞
This isn’t a 30 minute job; from hood up to down, it took me the better part of a morning.
As many others have reported, EGR valve failure is very common on Chryslers. My van had 50K on it when the code (P0406) first appeared.
Yes I read what you said about adding a video, I don't have one and I am not going to take it off (EGR) to show how. (I might video doing it, If I have to do it again) But it can be removed without taking off the alternator. I have many many years of experience and many tools. I am ASE master certified. So unless you have been at this for a long time do it as he says above. I would only add one thing. Please disconnect the NEG terminal on the battery any time you are working around the alternator, starter or battery. It is a good idea to disconnect anytime you are working on a vehicle, but especially in these cases.