Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:
How did you know this part needed replacement? Why did you choose a certain brand/part number?
Engine stopped running at 115k miles. Diagnosed by previous owner's mechanic.
Part Comments
What came in the box? Were additional nuts, bolts, sealant, etc. needed for the repair?
I did the timing belt only. The tensioner, idler, and water pump all sounded and felt OK.
Repair / Installation tips:
Special tools needed? Have to remove other parts to reach this one? Any left-hand threads, sharp edges, messy fluids or other pitfalls to avoid?
The instructions in the Haynes manual are worse than useless. It doesn't say that you have to jack up that end of the engine. You do not need to loosen the AC compressor like it says.
The
AllDataDIY instructions are much better. After removing both torque struts and the upper torque strut bracket, support the engine at the oil pan using a wood block and floor jack. Remove the large bolt thru the mount in the right side frame. Dismount the PS pump and bracket and move them toward the drivers side a little. You will probably have to remove the grill and crossmember and tilt the radiator forward to get in there.
The engine support bracket is between the upper and lower timing belt covers. You have to raise that end of the engine about 4 inches before you can get the three large bolts out to remove it from the engine. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold. Raise the engine a little at a time to be sure nothing is stuck. It may be necessary to dismount the computer and move it to keep from damaging its connectors. Adjust the alternator all the way toward the engine so that it doesn't jam against the accumulator.
