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2000 GMC YUKON XL 1500 5.3L 323cid V8 FI (T)
Fuel Pump

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Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:

How did you know this part needed replacement? Why did you choose a certain brand/part number?

Car was loosing power (sluggish when gas peddle is pressed) and eventually stalled. It would not start again. Used a screwdriver in the spark plug wire to verify spark. Did not hear fuel pump run when key was turned on. Verified +12V for 2 seconds at test point in fuse panel under hood. I purchased a fuel pressure gauge and discovered that my fuel pressure was very low (10 PSI, should be 55 PSI). This was the second fuel pump to go bad on this car.





Part Comments

What came in the box? Were additional nuts, bolts, sealant, etc. needed for the repair?
All parts needed were included.







Repair / Installation tips:

Special tools needed? Have to remove other parts to reach this one? Any left-hand threads, sharp edges, messy fluids or other pitfalls to avoid?
Fuel pressure gauge - not absolutely necessary.
Special wrench to remove and replace metal retaining ring around pump - I used a rubber mallet and a chisel covered with a rag to prevent sparks. I would not advise this as a spark around gas fumes can really ruin your day.

The first step is to drain the gas tank. This was a major pain. I got a pump, but it leaked, and a 5 gallon gas can. Unfortunately I had just filled up. Fortunately both of my other cars needed gas. The tube would not reach the bottom of the tank so I had to remove the filler hose under the car to get deep enough into the tank to get to the gas. I also bent a hanger around the hose to guide it to the bottom of the tank. What a pain. There are probably better methods but I couldn't think of any. Have someone help you if you can. The drain hose ended up falling out of the gas can and spilled gas all over my back. YUCK!!! Glad I didn't need that shirt.

You have to remove the vacuum canister under the car. It is just 2 screws but the vacuum hoses can be a bit tricky. You have to squeeze them pretty good to get them to unlatch. Next you detach the fuel and return lines at the front of the tank. They are difficult to see, but you can get both hands on them by reaching around the frame. Feel for the end of the plastic clips and squeeze hard. These also gave me a bit of trouble. Now you can remove the second hose at the back of the tank. I placed a 4' 1x12 board on my floor jack to support the tank while I removed the two bolts on the two straps that hold the tank. Then I lowered the tank. You have to jack the car up fairly high in order to get the tank out from under the car. Remove the 2 electrical connections. Drop the tank on a large cardboard so you can move it around. Remove and replace the pump. Remember the special wrench might be a good investment here. Use reverse order to put everything back together. No smoking!!!!!

I got a Bosch pump this time as the last two were both AC Delco (purchased from Delphi) and each lasted about 100K miles. The Bosch is a bit noisy, but seems to work fine. At least I know it is running.