Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:
How did you know this part needed replacement? Why did you choose a certain brand/part number?
There was a lot of play in the steering wheel. While diagnosing the movement, I noticed the steering gear had a lot of slack and was moving around internally before the pitman arm began to move.
Part Comments
What came in the box? Were additional nuts, bolts, sealant, etc. needed for the repair?
Just the steering gear. No additional parts relating specifically to the steering gear were required.
Repair / Installation tips:
Special tools needed? Have to remove other parts to reach this one? Any left-hand threads, sharp edges, messy fluids or other pitfalls to avoid?
Potential addional parts needed if the steering gear replacement is necessary:
1. Stabilizer (sway) bar bushings (1, both bushins are included in the package)
2. Stabilizer (sway) bar link kit (2, one for each side)
3. Tie rod end (connects to the pitman arm)
4. Power steering high pressure hose
5. Power steering return hose
6. 1 Gallon of Mopar (or equivalent) power steering fluid (don't use ATF!)
Soecial Tools:
18mm Wrench (required to remove the power steering pump hoses)
33mm socket (required to remove the pitman arm)
Piman Arm Puller
Two pronged suspension fork
5 pound hammer
To remove the steering gear, the stabilizer bar must be removed. The stabilizer bar links have to be disconnected first, then remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar. The lower radiator hose was routed below the right side of the stabilizer bar. Be careful not to let the weight of the stabilizer bar rest on the radiator hose once the bolts are removed. It took some maneuvering to fish the stabilizer bar out without snagging the radiator hose. If you have a helping hand, this is a step where it is really beneficial. The rubber bushings on the stabilizer link were shot, as they were compressed and solid. Unfortunately I did not order these ahead of time, so it added time to the entire job. The bushings on the stabilizer bar were in decent condition, but for $8, it was worth replacing these while having access.
Observe where the high pressure and return hoses connect to the power steering gear, then mark the new steering gear to reflect where the high pressure and return hoses connect to. Disconnect the high pressure return hose. This is a little messy; make sure there is a drain pan directly under the power steering gear. Disconnect the return hose, which will be messy as well. Once the return hose is disconnected, raise the open end above the power steering pump if possible, to stop the draining of the power steering pump reservoir. Remove the bolt securing the steering shaft to the power steering gear. Remove the cotter pin and bolt securing the pitman arm to the tie rod end. Disconnect the tie rod end from the pitman arm. I managed to rip the boot of the tie rod end in this process, so I had to purchase a replacement.
Loosen the three bolts securing the power steering gear to the frame. Just loosen the top bolt by a few turns, don't get it close to removal yet. Remove the bottom two bolts. With the top bolt loosened but still holding the weight of the gear, you should be able to pivot the assembly clockwise enough to disengage the steering shaft from the steering gear. A long screwdriver may be required to help slide the steering shaft off. Once the steering shaft is off, the final steering gear bolt may be removed. Be careful here, the steering gear is heavy (~30 pounds). If you have a helper, this is a good place to have two hands. It's even better if you have the vehicle on a lift. It is workable with a crawler, but just be aware of the weight, the angles you're dealing with, and the slickness of the part from the fluids dripping.
With the part out, the pitman arm may be removed with the pitman arm puller. This was the most difficult part of the task for me. I had a general 3 prong puller, but it could not supply the force needed to pry on the pitman arm. I purchased a pitman arm two prong puller, which attached very securely to the arm. Even with this, I could not torque the tool enough to pull the arm off. It took a lot of swings with a 5 pound hammer to force the arm to slide off the gear.
Before putting the new gear in, I took the opportunity to purge the power steering pump of the old fluid, and to replace the high pressure and return hoses. Both were cracked and leaking, so replacement was the only option. The instructions for the steering gear mentioned disconnecting the coil wire and using the started to help purge the system, but I didn't like the idea of turning the motor over with the starter for this. I disconnected the serpentine belt, placed a coffee can under the high pressure hose, and turned the pulley by hand. It doesn't take much effort to turn the pump, and using this method I could watch the level of the collector and the level of fluid in the reservoir while turning the pulley. Simply fill the reservoir, turn the pulley until the fluid is almost empty, then repeat as needed until the fluid discharged is the same color and consistency as the fluid you're putting in. At some point in the process, while the reservoir fluid level is low, remove the return line from the pump and plug it with a temporary piece of hose, or whatever you have to stop the fluid from leaking out.
Install the new steering gear. Install the top bolt, but tighten it to securely hold the unit, but don't tighten it to the point where the gear won't move. With the top bolt in, pivot the gear and slide the steering shaft on. Pivot the gear back in place, then secure with the remaining two bolts. Be sure to torque all three at this stage. Install the bolt in the steering shaft. Install the pitman arm, and attach to the tie rod end. Attach the power steering high pressure and return hoses. Using the same process as before, cycle new fluid through the system and purge the steering gear of the factory fluid. Once the system is purged, remove the temporary plug on the power steering pump return line and connect the return hose. (Do this quickly as it is a little messy, the reservoir fluid will drain as soon as the plug is removed.)
The instructions stated to purge the system of air by turning the wheels (with the engine running) all the way to one side, then turn them to the other, and repeat. I did turn them as instructed, but did so with the engine off (vehicle without tires on and still on stands), and turned the power steering pulley by hand at the extremes. This seemed to fill the gear with sufficient fluid and most of the air was purged. Be sure to constantly check the level of the fluid reservoir, as the levels drop quickly while performing this.
Once satisfied with the air purging, remove the stabilizer links and replace the bushings with new bushings, then reinstall the link. (Do one at a time so that the other may be used for reference). Then, install the new stabilizer bar bushings. Install the stabilizer bar. It may take some prying with a lever to force the stabilizer bar far enough down on the stabilizer bar links to thread the link nut.
If I had all the parts required, and the tools, up front, this probably would have been a 4-6 hour job. But, I had to perform in piecemeal since I didn't have everything needed in the beginning.
After the vehicle is started for the first time and the steering is exercised, be sure to re-check the fluid level and add if needed.
