Diagnosis and Part Selection Advice:

How did you know this part needed replacement? Why did you choose a certain brand/part number?

I replaced the thermostat as part of rountine maintenance while replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses. I found the thermostat hangs in the thermostat housing by a couple of metal feet. Both those metal feet had broken off the original thermostat (at 65K miles) and the thermostat had come apart. The thermostat spring, etc. were just rattling around inside the thermostat housing and I was lucky none of the pieces had washed into the engine. I chose a 195 deg. Stant thermostat because that was the temperature recommended in the Haynes service manual.

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Part Comments

What came in the box? Were additional nuts, bolts, sealant, etc. needed for the repair?

The thermostat has a "seal" where it fits into a hole in the thermostat housing, but the thermostat gasket must be purchased separately. I chose a Fel-Pro Perma Dry thermostat gasket because I have had great luck with the Perma Dry gaskets (oil pan, valve cover, etc.) on other cars. The Fel Pro Perma Dry thermostat gasket was extremely well made and sealed the first time without any additional gasket sealing goop. It was even a sporty blue color.

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Repair / Installation tips:

Special tools needed? Have to remove other parts to reach this one? Any left-hand threads, sharp edges, messy fluids or other pitfalls to avoid?

The thermostat housing is on the left (drivers) side of the engine head. The temperature sensor is in the thermostat housing so I disconnected its electrical connector. I partially removed the big air intake hose to get it out of the way. Disconnect the upper radiator hose and the water pump bypass/heater hose and then remove two bolts and the thermostat housing comes off.